This particular place in the World has become increasingly popular as it's been featured in recent television programmes; most notably Three Men Go To Scotland with Gryff Rhys Jones, Rory McGrath and Dara O Briain. It may be gaining in popularity but on my recent trip I can definitely say there was nothing but peace and quiet!
My journey begins from my home town of Liverpool but I'm not going to do journal of the road trip from there. The journey will begin in the Highland gateway town of Fort William and will detail how to get to Knoydart from there and to point out some interesting locations on the way. It's not the easiest place to get to, there are no roads in or out and you can either walk in via a long trek or take the ferry from Mallaig. I took the ferry as I didn't fancy lugging my gear over miles of wildnerness!
Directions To Fort William
If you're travelling to Fort William from the South, the route is pretty straightforward. M6 to Scotland, continue on M74 to join the M8 into Glasgow then eventually join the A82 towards Crianlarich. Once you're past Glasgow and travelling alongside Loch Lomond you'll know you're entering the Highlands.
Glencoe
The route takes you through a few small towns where you can stop for refreshments. Tyndrum is a pretty good pit stop and is the last town before heading towards Rannoch Moor and the awesome Glencoe.
For detailed directions click on the link to Google Maps on the right.
After leaving Tyndrum the A82 eventually winds itself across the expanse of Rannoch Moor. This is where the landscape makes a dramatic change and marks the beginning of the Highlands. Eventually you'll begin nearing Glencoe, arguably the most spectacular valley in the UK. The huge bulk of Buachaille Etive Mòr stands at the entrance to Glencoe, the road skirting around its impressive base and into Glencoe itself. If you're visting for the first time prepare to have your breath taken away as the view is awesome. To the left rise the Three Sisters of Glencoe which are buttresses of the central Bidean Nam Bian peak. It's worth stopping at the lay by's for some photographs and maybe explore a little further.
Fort William
Since I started this blog I've revisited Fort William and things are looking a lot nicer now than they did a few years ago. The old and famous Grand Hotel had fallen into disrepair and was earmarked for demolition. Well now there is a Travelodge and a Wetherspoons and a small shopping mall in it's place. For nostalgia purposes here's what use to grace the high street.
 |
| Grand Hotel looking not so Grand. |
 |
| Loung Bar - Inviting |
 |
| Nice patch of prime development land. |
There is a great pub on the high street called the Grog and Gruel. It does excellent real ales and good pub food. Check out the curly fries as they're very moreish. We stay in the Queen's Hotel for a night before heading off the next day to Mallaig. You can't beat a full breakfast after a skinful at he Grog. Although most times, a few hours later, I'm regretting it.
Glenfinnan and Mallaig
Follow the A830 north out of Fort William which eventually turns west towards the coast. It takes around an hour to get to Mallaig but on the way you'll be greeted by some spectacular scenery and the beautiful Silver Sands of Morar. Along the way you'll pass by the Glenfinnan monument which is worth a stop and if you're brave to climb inside the monument and squeeze yourself through a trap door onto a viewing platform. It's tight, claustrophobic and pretty scary, especially if you're not alone up there!
Driving on towards Mallaig will give you glimpses of islands out at sea and you can divert off to see the Silver Sands of Morar. These rocky headlands frame beautiful white sand beaches and there are view across the blue sea toward Rhum, Eig and Skye. Well worth a stop and maybe even camp for a few nights.
Mallaig
 |
| Mallaig |
 |
| Mallaig town |
Mallaig is the plpace you get the ferry from but it's worth a little jaunt around the harbour. There's not a whole lot to see but Mallaig is a pleasant enough stop while you wait to get the ferry. The harbour is obvious when you get there and if you wander along the quayside you'll find a small wooden shack where you can buy tickets.
Here is the link to the website for prices and sailing times:-
 |
| Don't slip. |
 |
| Ferry to the Isles |
Knoydart Penninsular and Inverie
The boat ride to Inverie is fairly short lasting around 45 minutes. I'm paranoid at being seasick so I took a couple of Kwells before I boarded the boat. I don't think I needed them really but I wanted to make sure. The spectacular views of the coast distract you from any thoughts of throwing up so I was fine. The boat takes you around the coast with views over to Skye but when you catch sight of your destination you'll be amazed at the view. The mountains rise up to over three thousand feet from the coast so they look all the more imposing.
 |
| Knoydart Penninsular |
 |
| Inverie. The white line at the foot of the mountains. |
 |
| Rugged beauty |
Once you disembark the boat, head right towards the pub and follow the single track past the church until you get to a small set of farm buildings and houses. Turn right and follow the signs to the beach campsite and take in the view as you stroll along the edge of the sea loch. You'll notice a small group of trees which houses your worst nightmare in toilet facilities; the Thunderbox. I won't go into too much description but this is potty time as nature intended in all its rawness. Take plenty of bogroll with you as well as alcoholic hand gel. Don't, like me, and have the bright idea of using the hand gel on other parts of your body after using the Thunderbox; it hurts like hell.
If you are in the low season then I can pretty much guarantee you'll be the only campers on the camp site. I have visited twice and there have been around 6 tents on the entire site. Peace and quite is in abundance here.
From the campsite there are paths into the mountains and there is a long distance footpath that takes you to Glenfinnan. It's around 30 miles across some rugged landscape and will take around three days to complete. For us, lounging on the beach, reading and photographing were the order of the day as well as nightly trips to the Old Forge.
Knoydart is difficult to get to but it's worth the effort. You're rewarded with some of the most unspoilt wilderness in Europe and there are no tourists there to spoil the experience. If the weather is good and the sun shines then it really doesn't get much better. Even when the weather is bad, and boy did it get bad one afternoon, it's still one of the best places to camp in Britain, Europe and dare I say the World. Go check it out and let me know if you agree!
Please read the Privacy Policy for knoydarttrip.blogspot.co.uk/
